Pajama Town in the Gulf War

22 January 1991. I was sitting in a sealed room wearing a gas mask on my face. and listening to the falling of Scud missiles in the adjacent city of Ramat-Gan , some fifteen minutes drive from my home. The gas mask was supposed to protect us from chemical and biological warfare agents in case Iraq's Saddam Hussein decided to use mass destruction weapons during the Gulf War.

cute,isn't it?

Most of the missiles fell on a street named Abba Hillel , nearby the Diamond Exchange Tower. It was said that Saddam Hussein's people had in mind another target in this vicinity , but they failed to launch the missiles at the right angle, and so this particular street got all the damage and casualties; scores of residents were left homeless.

Abba Hillel street

Ramat-Gan (in translation: Garden Heights), located in the very center of Israel, is associated not only with gardens but also with chocolates, soccer, and...iraqis. The city has several nicknames: Ramat-Iraq, Pajama Town, Little Baghdad, Iraqi Town - all of them relating to the fact that it has a large number of jewish residents of Iraqi origin, restaurants serving iraqi dishes and.. the common sight of iraqi men moving on the balconies of their home dressed in pajamas .

After the war, the main theme for stand-up comedies , was based on the joke that Saddam Hussein' s missiles were attracted to Ramat-Gan by ...the smell of iraqi dishes (sabiach, koube, shawarma, amba) , and the sound of iraqi music coming out from many places in the town. Anyway, it was rather ironical that Saddam Hussein's missiles had hit the place with a big concentration of his former "compatriots".

Statue of iraqi jewish prayer on Abba Hillel street

Today, this street is known for its skyscrapers in the district of the Diamond Exchange (considered the largest diamond exchange in the world) and some skyscrapers at the other extremity , near the big soccer Stadium and the Ayalon Shoping Mall. They say that in the evening the illuminated towers' area looks like Manhattan. I don't know about that as I've never been to Manhattan, but the sparkling cluster of skyscrapers does look nice at any time of the day.

skyscrapers in the Diamond Exchange complex

Herzl and Herzliya

He had three children; all three of them died tragically. (His daughter Pauline died at 40 of a heroin overdose. His son Hans committed suicide on the day of his sister's funeral; Hans was 39 of age. The youngest daughter, Trude, died at the Therezin concentration camp).
Let's hope his fourth "child" - the State of Israel - will survive despite the hostility that surrounds it.

He - Theodor Herzl (1860-1904 ) an austro-hungarian journalist who envisaged and supported the establishment of a jewish homeland . In the Jewish world and in Israel in particular, he's a legendary figure. His remains and those of his first two born children and grandson (Trude's son) were moved from abroad and reburied on Mt. Herzl in Jerusalem.

Herzliya , the city situated on the central coast of Israel, was named after Theodor Herzl. The top picture shows a dramatic statue of Herzl on the water tower at the Hasira junction, overlooking the city and the traffic to it. The following two pictures of Herzl's double-sided poster figure were taken in front of the New High Scool in the city of Herzliya. His poster was put there probably to remind the students of his famous slogan "If you wish it , nothing will be a fairy tale".

Welcome ! Herzl behind the town-map of Herzliya


Herzl facing the New High School area

Herzliya is home to the largest film studios in the country. "Ulpanei Herzliya", are located at the end of a short, narrow quiet street named 'Kesem' (hebrew word for Magic - how appropriate!). It should be mentioned that Israel has been nominated for quite a few Academy Awards for Best Foreign Language Film produced here.

Herzliya Film Studios - entrance

The city has fine beaches and hotels, a very affluent district named Herzliya Pituach (home to foreign diplomats, businessmen, high-tech companies), parks, a marina harbor, a small airport, various cultural centers and attractions (museums, galleries, a municipal stadium, a camera music chamber) , and a private university (The Herzliya Interdisciplinary Center) offering degrees in various academic disciplines.

The Marina (built in the 1970s) provides mooring for boats and yachts of all shapes and sizes. It is also a center for marine sports, and a very popular spot for going out to eat and drink as there are some very nice restaurants and cafes by the water. There's even a mall in the area, the Arena Mall, with shops selling high quality products. The Marina has become a well -known hub of israeli night life.

view of the Marina

'Beni the Fisherman' restaurant

Pupp - for the Rich and Famous

The recent Oscar celebrations with the arrivals of film celebrities on the red carpet, have reminded me of my short visit to the czeck town of Karlo Vivary (Carlsbad) some six months ago. While there, I was fascinated by the architecture and history of Grandhotel Pupp . This hotel hosts the annual International Film Festival and the cinema people that attend it, and is also temporary home to vacationing actors. The hotel was used in several films, the most known one - James Bond's 'Casino Royale'.

It started as the Saxony Hall in 1701. A guy named Jan Pop (german Johan Pupp) came to Carlsbad where he worked with a confectioner. He married his employer's daughter. She managed to buy partial ownership of this Saxony Hall and the nearby Bohemia Hall built later. These halls and a third one purchased by Pupp himself will later become the Grandhotel Pupp, which is now part of Pupp Complex. The impressive building was built in the 18th century in Baroque style ; its rooms renovated in the late nineties.

entrance

Walking on the carpets and through the rooms of Grandhotel Pupp is to walk in the steps of history. Throughout its history of three centuries, this hotel has hosted famous people from all walks of life: political ,religious, cultural , financial, scientific- from Europe and beyond that. Here are a few names: Bismark (german chancellor), russian Czar Peter the Great, Carlos King of Spain, Harald King of Norway, composers: Beethoven, Mozart, Bach, Liszt, Dvorzack, actors Gregory Peck, Michael Douglas, Whoopi Goldberg, Alan Alda, Ornela Muti, psychoanalyst Dr. Freud.

Grandhotel Pupp is a luxurious hotel. It has more than two hundred regular rooms, suites, several apartments dedicated to very famous people, a presidential room, an imperial room, a spa center, casino, golf course & club, restaurants, bars, cafe, conference room, halls for special & festive events.

woman with jug- symbol of thermal baths & spas

Now back to the 2011 Oscar ceremony - Colin Firth is sooooo handsome , talented , and...british! I'm glad that the Oscar went to both "the King's speech" movie and its star .

NOIR

'Noir' is the french word for 'black' ; it appears in widely known terms such as the cinematic 'film noir' . It is also the name of a unique shop in my home town which specializes in selling various items in black color : clothing, jewelery, pillows, lamp-shades , mini statues - the 'hottest' item being.. .black toilet paper. According to one of the two blond, black dressed ladies that own this shop, the concept behind it, is theirs original, and they might even export it abroad .

Once, I visited a co-worker at her home. I was shocked to see that everything in the kitchen, except the walls and floor - was black. Since then, I've gradually got used to the idea that black is not only the colour of mourning, there's more to it; it is elegant , distinguished. In fact, I like to wear black. I also like black pots , and certain black furniture pieces .

The above-mentioned store , has a glass facade (windows and entrance) so its whole interior is seen outside. The shots were taken in the evening ( It's hard to take pictures of it in daylight as the picture shows reflection of the street through the glass). Two things 'brighten up' the place a bit :the colour of the walls and shelves, and the images of famous stars such as the M. divas: Marlen Dietrich at the back and Marlyn Monroe at the front part of the shop (the latter has been lately replaced with the image of Frank Sinatra).

glass facade

The walls, and the shelves attached to them are painted in mustard yellow colour which is a nice contrast to black. The lower rims of the shelves have slogans written on them explaining why black; it's dramatic, it's beautiful, it's mysterious, it's powerful , it's magic, it's glamorous , and it is never out of fashion.

shelves

The prices are rather ...pricey. I could ,however, afford the black toilet paper. It is sold as one roll of paper wrapped up nicely for a present and put into an elegant black bag with the tag 'Noir' on it.. I'm not going to use it , so please don't ask me whether it does its job well.

black toilet-paper roll

Workout in the Park

It is GFF - Green scenery, Fresh air, Free equipment, and... it 's near my home. You won't see any hunks with muscles here, as the place is basic, not for professionals; it suits any age and gender though. I have become rather addicted to it - at least twice a week (weather depending and time permitting) for about fifty minutes.

workout devices

The little park has beautiful trees (good for resistance exercises) and trails for brisk walking, jogging and bicycles. In the middle of the park - a tiny round soft spot with five solid basic workout devices, and some benches around it. At first, it is boring , but then you think of the advantages: it saves time and money (near home, free access to equipment), it puts you in shape for the warm days to come , not to mention the good it does to health in general; and so, you joyfully plunge into it.

jogging trail

Kids and dogs belonging to people who stop here for a short work out, can be a distraction sometimes - you would rather play with them :). Dogs, by the way, are not allowed in the park, but this is the Middle East here, nobody gives a damn on what is allowed or not. In the evening the distraction is of a different nature: young couples sitting on the bench, holding hands, chatting and kissing while the moon shyly looks upon them through the tree branches.

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having fun

Behind The Black Veil

No, these are not Taliban women in Afganistan, Pakistan, Iran or any other muslim country. The above picture with the women and girls in black was taken in Israel, in the city of Beit Shemesh , near Jerusalem.

'Beit Shemesh' ('House of the Sun' or 'Temple of the Sun' in Hebrew) , named after the sun-goddess Shemesh worshipped here in antiquity, was founded in 1950 near the ruins of the ancient biblical town with the same name.

This city has besides secular residents, a large orthodox population which includes many streams of religious practice , and an ultra-orthodox sector (haredim), It also has... an impressive number of immigrants from english-speaking countries (USA, Great Britain, South Africa, Australia etc..).

The phenomenon of women and girls completely covered up in layers of cloth (with only a few unseen holes in the eye area) is called the Shalim Movement - 'shalim' meaning shawls, veils, cloak. It's strange, as it is not based on the bible, on tradition, or on some religious law; it is more likely a trend acquired from our muslim neighboring countries. The leader of this sect, Malka Benizri, comes indeed from a jewish family that has its origin in a muslim country, and so, I suppose, are most of the women that belong to it.

This sect is still a minority but it's spreading fast among neighborhoods.

The key word with these women is 'tzniut'(modesty). They meet once a week and talk about it. Well, they do take modesty to a level unknown to Judaism, perhaps known only to Islam. Some of them may even do it against their husbands' will. There were reports of girls being beaten up because they refused to wear shalim (the former leader of this movement, a mother of ten, is in prison on charges of child abuse).

I don't live in that area and don't have to stumble upon them, but it's worrying. I think this phenomenon should not be encouraged (to say the least) for several reasons: It's against Nature, it's exaggerated and extreme (extremity could lead to other forms of extremity), the shawls that also cover the whole face including eyes and ears create social barriers , may damage the eyes and physically endanger the wearer (especially the small girls).

Live Danger in a Dead Place.

Several months ago I got attacked by ...a plant. It happened while I was on my way out of the cemetery. My skirt touched a shrub near one of the graves and all of a sudden its fruit opened up sending tens of needles into the lower part of my body. I won't go into details; I'll just say that it was pure Hell.

I know, of course, about the existence of plants whose exterior is covered by thorns or needles, but this was something else. No warning whatsoever of the concealed weapon. I was so shocked and in pain that I wasn't able to even take a decent look at the shrub. A month later I came back to the 'scene of crime' to search for it and take a picture so that I could start some inquiries, but I wasn't successful. I couldn't remember the exact place and shape of the 'villain'.

I'm not familiar with the regulations and restrictions, if any, regarding plants in a cemetery. I think in this particular cemetery there's usually no soil for planting near the headstones, so people bring all kinds of trees/shrubs/flowers, in pots of various shapes and sizes, and place them near the gravestone of their beloved trying to make beautiful the resting place of the dead and pleasurable the visits of the living.

I kept quiet about the incident. I felt it was a kind of punishment from Above for choosing the short way among the graves and thus disturbing the peace of the dead, instead of taking the normal path. I don't know why I haven't used the paved path. Probably, it's the nasty child in me, that resides in everyone, making us , at times, behave badly and do stupid things.

I should have complained to the manager of the cemetery about the shrub, demanding an explanation of their policy as to the sort of plants allowed in the cemetery, but I didn't. I guess I was still uncomfortable with my behaviour, and I was too glad that no lasting harm was done to me.

Fire and Water

I like it as it is, with its flaws and despite the criticisms. But then, I don't see it often enough to form a solid opinion about it. Anyway , it's going to undergo a big change. First, there will be a public opinion survey regarding its fate; I won't be asked my opinion about the options (renovation or back to street level) as I'm not a resident of the city,

The elevated Dizengoff plaza( square) , has been a love-hate story for the people of Tel-Aviv city since 1978. Named after Zina Dizengoff, the wife of the first mayor , Meir Dizengoff - the square (inaugurated in 1938) is located in the very heart of this lively city.
In 1978, in order to solve traffic problems in the area, the circular pedestrian plaza ( a meeting point of six lateral streets), was raised to a higher level and connected by ramps to the sidewalks ; the traffic uses the lower level.

traffic under the plaza

People walk up and down the plaza , ride bicycles, or sit on the benches for a chat; children feed the pigeons, or play outdoor games. All enjoy watching the fire and water kinetic fountain sculpture erected in the middle of the plaza in 1980. The sculpture created by Yaakov Agam , a renowned artist, has become a landmark of the city attracting tourists as well as locals . It streams fire, water and music as it rotates (it's operated at certain hours) ; it contains all the colors of the rainbow moving and changing. It is a colourful and beautiful piece of art . If the square will be restored to street level, the fountain might be transferred to another location.

the kinetic fountain

boy feeding the pigeons

nice legs and...dog

I'm not sure the survey is a good idea when it comes to such an important matter as the fate of a square. I don't think the public has the neccessary knowledge and understanding to decide on this. I'm for improvement and renovation of the square, and perhaps the residents of the city should be asked to offer suggestions on how to beautify the place, clean it and make it more pleasant and attractive.

red Suitcase in murky River

September 2008. Police divers found a red suitcase in the Yarkon river with the remains of a four year old girl who has been missing since May.
It is neither the first nor the only tragic event associated with this river (see my post "The fatal bridge and the Fungus" from july 2010), but it is certainly the most ghastly one. The grandfather (who was also her stepfather) and the mother of the dead girl Rose Pisam, are in prison.

Little Rose was the child of her grandfather's son and her grandfather's wife (formerly her father's wife). Murky? Yes, like the waters of the Yarkon river.
Apparently, the grandfather - stepfather, a man in his forties, couldn't stand the sight of the little girl (the child of his young son and the woman he loved), beat her to death and placed her into a suitcase which was then abandoned in the river.

Hayarkon river, the longest shore river in Israel, flows from its sources (Rosh Hayin Springs) through several municipial areas into the Mediterranean Sea , near Tel Aviv port. It has always been in the news, mainly because of heavy pollution issues. Despite the many efforts invested in cleaning the waters, the river is still polluted, and as far as I know swimming here is forbidden by the Health Authorities. Along its banks however, there are many historical sights and especially recreational attractions such as: parks, sports fields, bicycle tracks, a rowing center, work-out facilities.

rowing on the Yarkon river

man cleaning the water

jogging and bicycle track

Tragic events and blessed activities co-exist in this river's area which is very central geographically and very popular among the inhabitants of the adjacent cities. As usual, Life goes on under any circumstances.

Wine and Roses

The wine shop and the florist's shop on my favorite street in my home town, remind me on Fridays, of "The Days of Wine and Roses" - the title of both, a movie about a married couple who fell into alcoholism, and that of the romantic song from the same movie, composed by the famous Henri Mancini.

Friday is the day of 'relief' in a five-day work week .
People don't have to go to work so they invade the streets, , the coffee shops, the restaurants, and have a good time. Friday is also a day of intense shopping for Sabbath (the rest Day). Wine and flowers are among the chief items people buy for this day - to celebrate its holiness and to beautify the house.

There are rumors that parents of children in the neighborhood have complained about the wine store's open 'bar' (some tables & chairs in front of the little store for people to drink and socialize, on Friday noons mainly). They claim it's not educational for children and teenagers to watch people drink alcoholic beverages .

There's truth in the parents' claim , and yet.... I'm not in favor of closing the place. I like the sight of people (who seem to know each other ) drinking wine from elegant glasses ,chatting and enjoying themselves. It all looks very classy, and there are no drunkards among them; they probably know how to taste and drink wine.

I believe flowers have a life of their own as humans and animals do, and that they should be allowed to grow, live, and die "in their own bed", in the soil of the garden, not in vases or pots. After all, they offer us beauty and fragrance , but not basic , vital food like many of the other plants that grow in gardens and fields - so why sacrifice them.

And yet.....I love giving and receiving flowers on various occassions. The beauty of flowers (especially that of roses) says everything better , clearer than any words spoken or written. It inspires hope and optimism; it expresses symphathy and love.

And so... we go on living with the contradictions. Life is full of them.

To Cut or not To Cut

I thought I would be able to look at It, and take some pictures, but I was wrong. When the crucial moment arrived, I went out cowardly leaving behind some 'blood thirsty" people . What's the matter with you? I asked myself in anger, you had such a strategic position , close to the "victim" and the "butcher" and you blew it. Psh!

I'm referring ,of course ,to the circumcision of a newly born male baby. The place - a superb hall shaped as a hut, overlooking a magic garden surrounded by citrus groves. It's a place for happy events (weddings, birthdays, various joyous occasions ) held during all seasons of the year. Background or live music, and a good, rich variety of food accompany each such event.

'hut' structure

food preparing

According to the jewish law, circumcision is obligatory. It is performed on the eight day after birth in a ceremony called 'Brith Milah' ( Covenant of Circumcision) by a 'mohel' , a Sabbath observant jew who's specially trained in this procedure. Usually the 'mohel' is a rabbi, sometimes a doctor, and sometimes both.

The father of the baby ( a relative of mine) was a pitiful sight: nervous, anxious, looking all the time at the instruments on the table near the baby's bed, probably fearing the worst. I also got scared just by glancing at all the circumcision devices on that table: scissors, clamp, scalpel, tweezers, bandages, knife, gauze, anaestethic lotion etc... and all my thoughts were to the poor tiny baby, lying quietly without knowing what is in store for him.

baby before surgical procedure

'circumcision' stuff

The Grandfather ( the father of the baby's father) was given the honor of being ' sandak', the person holding the baby after the surgery, while the blessings were recited. After the religious rituals the baby was passed on to family members and guests to hold and cherish him.

all's well that ends well

Customer Service

In my previous post I have mentioned 'buying shoes'. The word 'shoes' sends me right back to a weird episode in the past.

There was a small , rather pricey shoe-shop near the place where I worked; it specialized in italian quality shoes for women: fine leather, comfortable style, fashionable colors. The display window featuring the new collections always attracted me like magnet while on my way to and from work.
It was a family shop run by a middle-aged couple; the man was at the cash machine, his wife - took care of the customers. During busy hours they were joined by their daughter-in-law who helped keeping an eye on everything in the shop.

At a certain stage , the owners of the shop hired a young salesman and the two women were rarely seen since . The new guy looked completely out of place. He had the appearance of a wrestler, hardly fit to deal with women and sell them shoes. Well, his appearance was deceptive as he became known to have infinite patience for his female customers and good knowledge in the shoe trade.

Several months after he started working at that shop, it so happened that I saw a pair of suitable shoes in the window and I entered the shop to try them on. The salesman greeted me with a big smile , asked me politely to sit down , and went to bring the box with the required shoes. He then gently took off the shoes I was wearing, examined my feet to make sure they were not swollen from walking or standing (that's what he said), put them carefully into the new shoes. He radiated professionalism. Apparently, the shoes were a bit too tight, so he brought a bigger size and started again with the 'ceremony'.

At this point, I felt the guy was unneccessarily touching my feet, and I realized that he was probably one of those men who had a foot fetish. I didn't know how to react so as not to shame him, so I I just grabbed the shoes , paid for them, and decided to keep away from that shop in the future.

I told about my shoe- shopping experience to a co-worker. To my great astonishment, she shamelessly admitted that she had often entered the shop, not always with the intention to buy shoes; she was just interested in a "free massage" for her tired feet.
Well, as they say "it takes two to tango". Besides, good service is sending customers away satisfied and happy - and my co-worker, so it appeared, was a happy, satisfied customer.

The Poet's Street

In almost every town in Israel there's a Bialik street, named after the national poet Chaim Nachman Bialik (1873-1934). The works of this great poet deal with national issues as well as with the topics of nature, love, children. His poems have been translated in some 30 languages and many of them set to music. There are some very popular israeli songs based upon his lyrics.

The Bialik street in RamaT-Gan city is a long, busy street; there are some institutions located on it, but it's mainly a commercial street with all kinds of shops , eateries, and... public phone booths . Nothing poetic about it. (In one of the clothing shops I've purchased one of my most practical items - a multi-pocket garment).

The street has a lovely corner with two trees and two benches meant for people to sit down and relax during or after shopping. Last time I visited there I got very sad. Well, someone had the "great" idea of introducing trash bins in the very heart of the corner. As a result, people keep away from it, and the two benches have become target to vandalism.

"resting" corner on Bialik str. Ramat-Gan

The Bialik street in Tel Aviv city is quite another matter. It's a quiet, residential street (although close to the city center and the general Carmel market). It has a rather dignified atmosphere with a touch of spirituality due to the presence of three museums, a music library, and an old little synagogue, The buildings converted to museums are: the residential house of Bialik, the house of painter Rubin, , and the former municipality which dominates a little square with a fountain.

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Bialik's house on Bialik str. Tel-Aviv

old synagogue

historic Town Hall in the Bialik square

The last time I visited the tel-avivian Bialik street, I noticed a shop, just at the entrance to the street. It was a Crocks shoes shop. I didn't like the fact of a shop on the poet's street, but guess what. I went in and bought myself a pair of shoes at a discount price.

Let's hope that this is the first and last shop here, and that the street will not turn into a commercial one like its counterpart in Ramat-Gan. There are quite a lot of commercial streets everywhere, but very few streets with something of a 'poetic-spiritual' atmosphere.

Happy New Year to all my blog readers!