NOIR

'Noir' is the french word for 'black' ; it appears in widely known terms such as the cinematic 'film noir' . It is also the name of a unique shop in my home town which specializes in selling various items in black color : clothing, jewelery, pillows, lamp-shades , mini statues - the 'hottest' item being.. .black toilet paper. According to one of the two blond, black dressed ladies that own this shop, the concept behind it, is theirs original, and they might even export it abroad .

Once, I visited a co-worker at her home. I was shocked to see that everything in the kitchen, except the walls and floor - was black. Since then, I've gradually got used to the idea that black is not only the colour of mourning, there's more to it; it is elegant , distinguished. In fact, I like to wear black. I also like black pots , and certain black furniture pieces .

The above-mentioned store , has a glass facade (windows and entrance) so its whole interior is seen outside. The shots were taken in the evening ( It's hard to take pictures of it in daylight as the picture shows reflection of the street through the glass). Two things 'brighten up' the place a bit :the colour of the walls and shelves, and the images of famous stars such as the M. divas: Marlen Dietrich at the back and Marlyn Monroe at the front part of the shop (the latter has been lately replaced with the image of Frank Sinatra).

glass facade

The walls, and the shelves attached to them are painted in mustard yellow colour which is a nice contrast to black. The lower rims of the shelves have slogans written on them explaining why black; it's dramatic, it's beautiful, it's mysterious, it's powerful , it's magic, it's glamorous , and it is never out of fashion.

shelves

The prices are rather ...pricey. I could ,however, afford the black toilet paper. It is sold as one roll of paper wrapped up nicely for a present and put into an elegant black bag with the tag 'Noir' on it.. I'm not going to use it , so please don't ask me whether it does its job well.

black toilet-paper roll

Workout in the Park

It is GFF - Green scenery, Fresh air, Free equipment, and... it 's near my home. You won't see any hunks with muscles here, as the place is basic, not for professionals; it suits any age and gender though. I have become rather addicted to it - at least twice a week (weather depending and time permitting) for about fifty minutes.

workout devices

The little park has beautiful trees (good for resistance exercises) and trails for brisk walking, jogging and bicycles. In the middle of the park - a tiny round soft spot with five solid basic workout devices, and some benches around it. At first, it is boring , but then you think of the advantages: it saves time and money (near home, free access to equipment), it puts you in shape for the warm days to come , not to mention the good it does to health in general; and so, you joyfully plunge into it.

jogging trail

Kids and dogs belonging to people who stop here for a short work out, can be a distraction sometimes - you would rather play with them :). Dogs, by the way, are not allowed in the park, but this is the Middle East here, nobody gives a damn on what is allowed or not. In the evening the distraction is of a different nature: young couples sitting on the bench, holding hands, chatting and kissing while the moon shyly looks upon them through the tree branches.

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having fun

Behind The Black Veil

No, these are not Taliban women in Afganistan, Pakistan, Iran or any other muslim country. The above picture with the women and girls in black was taken in Israel, in the city of Beit Shemesh , near Jerusalem.

'Beit Shemesh' ('House of the Sun' or 'Temple of the Sun' in Hebrew) , named after the sun-goddess Shemesh worshipped here in antiquity, was founded in 1950 near the ruins of the ancient biblical town with the same name.

This city has besides secular residents, a large orthodox population which includes many streams of religious practice , and an ultra-orthodox sector (haredim), It also has... an impressive number of immigrants from english-speaking countries (USA, Great Britain, South Africa, Australia etc..).

The phenomenon of women and girls completely covered up in layers of cloth (with only a few unseen holes in the eye area) is called the Shalim Movement - 'shalim' meaning shawls, veils, cloak. It's strange, as it is not based on the bible, on tradition, or on some religious law; it is more likely a trend acquired from our muslim neighboring countries. The leader of this sect, Malka Benizri, comes indeed from a jewish family that has its origin in a muslim country, and so, I suppose, are most of the women that belong to it.

This sect is still a minority but it's spreading fast among neighborhoods.

The key word with these women is 'tzniut'(modesty). They meet once a week and talk about it. Well, they do take modesty to a level unknown to Judaism, perhaps known only to Islam. Some of them may even do it against their husbands' will. There were reports of girls being beaten up because they refused to wear shalim (the former leader of this movement, a mother of ten, is in prison on charges of child abuse).

I don't live in that area and don't have to stumble upon them, but it's worrying. I think this phenomenon should not be encouraged (to say the least) for several reasons: It's against Nature, it's exaggerated and extreme (extremity could lead to other forms of extremity), the shawls that also cover the whole face including eyes and ears create social barriers , may damage the eyes and physically endanger the wearer (especially the small girls).

Live Danger in a Dead Place.

Several months ago I got attacked by ...a plant. It happened while I was on my way out of the cemetery. My skirt touched a shrub near one of the graves and all of a sudden its fruit opened up sending tens of needles into the lower part of my body. I won't go into details; I'll just say that it was pure Hell.

I know, of course, about the existence of plants whose exterior is covered by thorns or needles, but this was something else. No warning whatsoever of the concealed weapon. I was so shocked and in pain that I wasn't able to even take a decent look at the shrub. A month later I came back to the 'scene of crime' to search for it and take a picture so that I could start some inquiries, but I wasn't successful. I couldn't remember the exact place and shape of the 'villain'.

I'm not familiar with the regulations and restrictions, if any, regarding plants in a cemetery. I think in this particular cemetery there's usually no soil for planting near the headstones, so people bring all kinds of trees/shrubs/flowers, in pots of various shapes and sizes, and place them near the gravestone of their beloved trying to make beautiful the resting place of the dead and pleasurable the visits of the living.

I kept quiet about the incident. I felt it was a kind of punishment from Above for choosing the short way among the graves and thus disturbing the peace of the dead, instead of taking the normal path. I don't know why I haven't used the paved path. Probably, it's the nasty child in me, that resides in everyone, making us , at times, behave badly and do stupid things.

I should have complained to the manager of the cemetery about the shrub, demanding an explanation of their policy as to the sort of plants allowed in the cemetery, but I didn't. I guess I was still uncomfortable with my behaviour, and I was too glad that no lasting harm was done to me.

Fire and Water

I like it as it is, with its flaws and despite the criticisms. But then, I don't see it often enough to form a solid opinion about it. Anyway , it's going to undergo a big change. First, there will be a public opinion survey regarding its fate; I won't be asked my opinion about the options (renovation or back to street level) as I'm not a resident of the city,

The elevated Dizengoff plaza( square) , has been a love-hate story for the people of Tel-Aviv city since 1978. Named after Zina Dizengoff, the wife of the first mayor , Meir Dizengoff - the square (inaugurated in 1938) is located in the very heart of this lively city.
In 1978, in order to solve traffic problems in the area, the circular pedestrian plaza ( a meeting point of six lateral streets), was raised to a higher level and connected by ramps to the sidewalks ; the traffic uses the lower level.

traffic under the plaza

People walk up and down the plaza , ride bicycles, or sit on the benches for a chat; children feed the pigeons, or play outdoor games. All enjoy watching the fire and water kinetic fountain sculpture erected in the middle of the plaza in 1980. The sculpture created by Yaakov Agam , a renowned artist, has become a landmark of the city attracting tourists as well as locals . It streams fire, water and music as it rotates (it's operated at certain hours) ; it contains all the colors of the rainbow moving and changing. It is a colourful and beautiful piece of art . If the square will be restored to street level, the fountain might be transferred to another location.

the kinetic fountain

boy feeding the pigeons

nice legs and...dog

I'm not sure the survey is a good idea when it comes to such an important matter as the fate of a square. I don't think the public has the neccessary knowledge and understanding to decide on this. I'm for improvement and renovation of the square, and perhaps the residents of the city should be asked to offer suggestions on how to beautify the place, clean it and make it more pleasant and attractive.

red Suitcase in murky River

September 2008. Police divers found a red suitcase in the Yarkon river with the remains of a four year old girl who has been missing since May.
It is neither the first nor the only tragic event associated with this river (see my post "The fatal bridge and the Fungus" from july 2010), but it is certainly the most ghastly one. The grandfather (who was also her stepfather) and the mother of the dead girl Rose Pisam, are in prison.

Little Rose was the child of her grandfather's son and her grandfather's wife (formerly her father's wife). Murky? Yes, like the waters of the Yarkon river.
Apparently, the grandfather - stepfather, a man in his forties, couldn't stand the sight of the little girl (the child of his young son and the woman he loved), beat her to death and placed her into a suitcase which was then abandoned in the river.

Hayarkon river, the longest shore river in Israel, flows from its sources (Rosh Hayin Springs) through several municipial areas into the Mediterranean Sea , near Tel Aviv port. It has always been in the news, mainly because of heavy pollution issues. Despite the many efforts invested in cleaning the waters, the river is still polluted, and as far as I know swimming here is forbidden by the Health Authorities. Along its banks however, there are many historical sights and especially recreational attractions such as: parks, sports fields, bicycle tracks, a rowing center, work-out facilities.

rowing on the Yarkon river

man cleaning the water

jogging and bicycle track

Tragic events and blessed activities co-exist in this river's area which is very central geographically and very popular among the inhabitants of the adjacent cities. As usual, Life goes on under any circumstances.

Wine and Roses

The wine shop and the florist's shop on my favorite street in my home town, remind me on Fridays, of "The Days of Wine and Roses" - the title of both, a movie about a married couple who fell into alcoholism, and that of the romantic song from the same movie, composed by the famous Henri Mancini.

Friday is the day of 'relief' in a five-day work week .
People don't have to go to work so they invade the streets, , the coffee shops, the restaurants, and have a good time. Friday is also a day of intense shopping for Sabbath (the rest Day). Wine and flowers are among the chief items people buy for this day - to celebrate its holiness and to beautify the house.

There are rumors that parents of children in the neighborhood have complained about the wine store's open 'bar' (some tables & chairs in front of the little store for people to drink and socialize, on Friday noons mainly). They claim it's not educational for children and teenagers to watch people drink alcoholic beverages .

There's truth in the parents' claim , and yet.... I'm not in favor of closing the place. I like the sight of people (who seem to know each other ) drinking wine from elegant glasses ,chatting and enjoying themselves. It all looks very classy, and there are no drunkards among them; they probably know how to taste and drink wine.

I believe flowers have a life of their own as humans and animals do, and that they should be allowed to grow, live, and die "in their own bed", in the soil of the garden, not in vases or pots. After all, they offer us beauty and fragrance , but not basic , vital food like many of the other plants that grow in gardens and fields - so why sacrifice them.

And yet.....I love giving and receiving flowers on various occassions. The beauty of flowers (especially that of roses) says everything better , clearer than any words spoken or written. It inspires hope and optimism; it expresses symphathy and love.

And so... we go on living with the contradictions. Life is full of them.

To Cut or not To Cut

I thought I would be able to look at It, and take some pictures, but I was wrong. When the crucial moment arrived, I went out cowardly leaving behind some 'blood thirsty" people . What's the matter with you? I asked myself in anger, you had such a strategic position , close to the "victim" and the "butcher" and you blew it. Psh!

I'm referring ,of course ,to the circumcision of a newly born male baby. The place - a superb hall shaped as a hut, overlooking a magic garden surrounded by citrus groves. It's a place for happy events (weddings, birthdays, various joyous occasions ) held during all seasons of the year. Background or live music, and a good, rich variety of food accompany each such event.

'hut' structure

food preparing

According to the jewish law, circumcision is obligatory. It is performed on the eight day after birth in a ceremony called 'Brith Milah' ( Covenant of Circumcision) by a 'mohel' , a Sabbath observant jew who's specially trained in this procedure. Usually the 'mohel' is a rabbi, sometimes a doctor, and sometimes both.

The father of the baby ( a relative of mine) was a pitiful sight: nervous, anxious, looking all the time at the instruments on the table near the baby's bed, probably fearing the worst. I also got scared just by glancing at all the circumcision devices on that table: scissors, clamp, scalpel, tweezers, bandages, knife, gauze, anaestethic lotion etc... and all my thoughts were to the poor tiny baby, lying quietly without knowing what is in store for him.

baby before surgical procedure

'circumcision' stuff

The Grandfather ( the father of the baby's father) was given the honor of being ' sandak', the person holding the baby after the surgery, while the blessings were recited. After the religious rituals the baby was passed on to family members and guests to hold and cherish him.

all's well that ends well

Customer Service

In my previous post I have mentioned 'buying shoes'. The word 'shoes' sends me right back to a weird episode in the past.

There was a small , rather pricey shoe-shop near the place where I worked; it specialized in italian quality shoes for women: fine leather, comfortable style, fashionable colors. The display window featuring the new collections always attracted me like magnet while on my way to and from work.
It was a family shop run by a middle-aged couple; the man was at the cash machine, his wife - took care of the customers. During busy hours they were joined by their daughter-in-law who helped keeping an eye on everything in the shop.

At a certain stage , the owners of the shop hired a young salesman and the two women were rarely seen since . The new guy looked completely out of place. He had the appearance of a wrestler, hardly fit to deal with women and sell them shoes. Well, his appearance was deceptive as he became known to have infinite patience for his female customers and good knowledge in the shoe trade.

Several months after he started working at that shop, it so happened that I saw a pair of suitable shoes in the window and I entered the shop to try them on. The salesman greeted me with a big smile , asked me politely to sit down , and went to bring the box with the required shoes. He then gently took off the shoes I was wearing, examined my feet to make sure they were not swollen from walking or standing (that's what he said), put them carefully into the new shoes. He radiated professionalism. Apparently, the shoes were a bit too tight, so he brought a bigger size and started again with the 'ceremony'.

At this point, I felt the guy was unneccessarily touching my feet, and I realized that he was probably one of those men who had a foot fetish. I didn't know how to react so as not to shame him, so I I just grabbed the shoes , paid for them, and decided to keep away from that shop in the future.

I told about my shoe- shopping experience to a co-worker. To my great astonishment, she shamelessly admitted that she had often entered the shop, not always with the intention to buy shoes; she was just interested in a "free massage" for her tired feet.
Well, as they say "it takes two to tango". Besides, good service is sending customers away satisfied and happy - and my co-worker, so it appeared, was a happy, satisfied customer.

The Poet's Street

In almost every town in Israel there's a Bialik street, named after the national poet Chaim Nachman Bialik (1873-1934). The works of this great poet deal with national issues as well as with the topics of nature, love, children. His poems have been translated in some 30 languages and many of them set to music. There are some very popular israeli songs based upon his lyrics.

The Bialik street in RamaT-Gan city is a long, busy street; there are some institutions located on it, but it's mainly a commercial street with all kinds of shops , eateries, and... public phone booths . Nothing poetic about it. (In one of the clothing shops I've purchased one of my most practical items - a multi-pocket garment).

The street has a lovely corner with two trees and two benches meant for people to sit down and relax during or after shopping. Last time I visited there I got very sad. Well, someone had the "great" idea of introducing trash bins in the very heart of the corner. As a result, people keep away from it, and the two benches have become target to vandalism.

"resting" corner on Bialik str. Ramat-Gan

The Bialik street in Tel Aviv city is quite another matter. It's a quiet, residential street (although close to the city center and the general Carmel market). It has a rather dignified atmosphere with a touch of spirituality due to the presence of three museums, a music library, and an old little synagogue, The buildings converted to museums are: the residential house of Bialik, the house of painter Rubin, , and the former municipality which dominates a little square with a fountain.

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Bialik's house on Bialik str. Tel-Aviv

old synagogue

historic Town Hall in the Bialik square

The last time I visited the tel-avivian Bialik street, I noticed a shop, just at the entrance to the street. It was a Crocks shoes shop. I didn't like the fact of a shop on the poet's street, but guess what. I went in and bought myself a pair of shoes at a discount price.

Let's hope that this is the first and last shop here, and that the street will not turn into a commercial one like its counterpart in Ramat-Gan. There are quite a lot of commercial streets everywhere, but very few streets with something of a 'poetic-spiritual' atmosphere.

Happy New Year to all my blog readers!

TEREZIN

It was a clear, almost sunny day in late October; I had a thick, woolen sweater on me, and yet I felt chills all over my body. My brain was busy translating sights into people and happenings, my camera 'behaved' as if it highly resented the idea of taking pictures.

Visiting a place which used to serve as ghetto, prison and concentration camp was not an enjoyable experience .

Terezin (Teresienstadt) , a peaceful little town one hour north of Prague. has been turned by the Nazis into a ghetto for the jews of Czechia and adjacent countries during World War Two.

Things are somehow dispersed here, confusing the first time visitor. There's the main site (the city Ghetto) and a small fortress ( Gestapo political prison) - some twenty minutes walk apart from each other. Both places have museums and exhibitions , cemeteries, yards, barracks, torture cells, bunks, gallows - all testimony to the attrocities that have been comitted here by the Nazis.

'Arbeit Macht Frei ' sign ( upon the inner gate)

inhuman cell

Outside of the small fortress (Mala Pevnost - built in the 18 century on the edge of the town of Terezin) , near the entrance, there's the National Cemetery , dedicated to the victims of Terezin prison and concentration camp. Buried here are people exhumated from the mass graves within the fortress, urns containing ashes from the Crematorium of the Ghetto, and also remains of the dead from the Ghetto. In all, 10,000 victims (jews and other nationalities - and there 's a Cross and a David's Shield on the spot).

entrance to the small fortress


national cemetery

I believe , a visiti to places like Terezin (Czech Republic) , Dachau (Germany), Auschwitz (Poland) gives one a new perspective to the concepts of Life and Death; it teaches a lot about Human Nature , about Evil and Suffering. After visiting places like the above mentioned , one's view of the world ceases to be romantic , and becomes more lucid and realistic.

Now You Come?!

I often hear people saying it's not wise to live too close to Nature's major elements; in fact, it's quite dangerous: forests present us with the danger of Fire, waters - danger of Floods, volcanoes - eruption of Lava and so on. With the global climate becoming crazy (as a result of frequent nuclear experiments performed in various parts of the world), things are going to be worse as far as natural disasters are concerned.

At the beginning of this month, terrible fires broke out in the forests of Mt. Carmel in the north of Israel causing loss of lives, of property, and consumming thousands of acres of forestland. People living on the mountain and its surroundings (among them a cousin of mine and his family) had to evacuate themselves.

Rain would have saved the situation, but there was no sign of it.
It was hot and dry, and the fire was spreading so quickly (helped by a deceiving cool breeze) that the firefighters on the ground were totally helpless. PM Netanyau had to ask for foreign assistance. Firefighting aircraft sent by the other countries did a good job in extinguishing the fire (especially the russian plane capable of holding up to 42,000 liters of water) .

A week or so after the disaster, heavy rains started to fall all over the country. 'Now you come?!' raged the headlines in the newspapers.

Well, the rain and the storm accompanying it caused damage to all sorts of cables , (including my phone cable) leaving people without electricity, TV, internet, etc.. The phone company was supposed to send someone the next day to repair my cable, but the technician appeared after... several days. I was so angry , that all I could say to him when he came in was : Now you come?!

Old and Jewish

The blue sign located above the souvenir stands (see picture below), indicates by the little white arrows , the direction to the synagogues (Maisel, Spanish, Pinkas, Old-New, Klausen), to the Ceremony Hall, and to the Old Jewish Cemetery- the major sites that make up the Old Jewish Quarter of Prague (Josefov). These historic-religious sites are visited every year by thousands of people from all over the world.

souvenirs in the Old Jewish Quarter

The above mentioned sites, display items belonging to the Jewish Museum in Prague: collections of jewish prints, manuscripts, books, silver ornaments, textile, traditions ,customs, and also lots of drawings by children from Terezin concentration camp.

The Pinkas synagogue is a Memorial to the czech victims of the Holocaust ; their names are written on its walls.

The Old-New synagogue ( the Altneushul) is the oldest in Europe, still in use as house of prayer. The Spanish synagogue hosts, besides exhibitions, also various concerts.

It is forbidden to take pictures inside the synagogues ( the interior of the Spanish synagogue with its moorish decorations is , in my opinion, the most beautiful); visitors can buy postcards, books and commemorative coins offered for sale on the spot.

exterior of the Maisel synagogue


The Old-New synagogue (the Altneushul)


the Pinkas synagogue

The Old Jewish Cemetery is somehow peculiar and yet very impressive .
Although small, the cemetery contains thousands of graves from various historical periods; the oldest gravestone is from year 1439, and the last burial took place in 1787 .
It is said that the graves are put one upon another in some 12 layers! Many of the gravestones seem close to each other and inclined , probably because of lack of space.

hebrew inscriptions on the tombstones

The most prominent figure burried in this cemetery is Rabbi Jehuda Loew ben Bezalel (known as the MaHaRaL) a scholar and educator who has published more than fifty(50) religios and philosophical books. According to the legend, he created the Golem, a monster made of clay , brought to life through magic, who stood by the Jews in bad times, but later became violent and had to be destroyed.

One thing is obvios; no peace and quiet for the dead of this cemetery. It's constantly flooded with tourists taking pictures and wondering about the sights.

Horses, Boats, and a Hug

A ride in a horse-drawn carriage and a cruise on the river , are popular and romantic ways to view a city like Prague. It is not for everyone though. Me, for instance, I'm rather shy, and the ride in a carriage is not for shy people; the glances and turning of heads of the passers-by might be embarassing.

ride in a horse-drawn carriage

As for a cruise, I'm not on very good terms with boats and ships. For some reason, I feel rather unwell on vessels. I've promised myself to 'work on it' , but there always seems to be something more important on my agenda. Pity!

Anyway, a cruise on the Vltava river offering spectacular views of its bridges (Karl bridge the most famous among them) and the landscape around including the Castle complex, The National Theatre, and more , is I suppose, a lifetime experience. I've noticed all kinds of boats there and the possibility of various tours according to duration, price, luxuries.

evening on the Quay; there are also night cruises

On Petrin Hill, they offer assisted rides on horses and ponies. Near the funicular terminal, there's a sculpture (mentioned by me in a previous post) showing an embrace between a man and woman (both naked). Two little ones , brother and sister, were intensely looking at it, giggling and discussing it. I wished I could understand the language. Perhaps I could have learnt something ...'out of the mouths of babes'. Sometimes kids surprise us with their wisdom and their mature understanding .

The father got angry with their interest in the statue, so he put them on a horse to keep them away from it. A horse- ride is not cheap, but then education does cost money.

horse riding on Petrin Hill