Thursday, March 12, 2009

Attractions and "attraction" in Lisbon


Tagus River (Rio Tejo)

The city of Lisbon rests on seven hills overlooking the Tagus river which flows into the Atlantic Ocean. In the area of of the river 's right bank there are some famous historical attractions built in honor of portuguese explorers and navigators of the 15&16 centuries : the Monument of the Discoveries (built as the front part of a ship) , the Tower of Belem ( a fortress built to protect the river and guard the entrance to the city) the two-storey Monastery of Jeronimo (where seafarers have prayed before departure to unknown lands) .


Monument to the Discoveries

On the day of my visiting the above mentioned sites, I stopped at an outside cafe for a cup of coffee and a slice of cake. While sipping my coffee and enjoying the scenery, two women approached the place looking for a table. The younger woman had no eyes, no orbits. It was a tough sight. All the heads turned in her direction. She could not see the looks , but I was sure she felt them, and she was aware of the fact that in her condition ( and not wearing black sunglasses as she didn't have earflaps either) wherever she goes she immediately becomes an "attraction" .

Two things came to my mind: one that she was probably a victim of the Thalidomide drug for morning sickness , prescribed to pregnant women in the sixties. This drug caused women to give birth to babies with missing limbs and/or various deformities. The other thing was , that ironically, the whole scene at the cafe 'went well' with the fado singing that could be heard in the vicinity ( 'fado'- portuguese sad, soul-tortured songs that could move the audience to tears. The famous portuguese singer Amalia Rodriguez was the most outstanding representative of this music genre).

And then , a third thing crossed my mind : that it is in moments like these that we don't want to resemble movie stars and models; we just want to be ourselves, simple, plain looking people, and with intact organs . It is in moments like these that we thank God for what we have and ask Him to take care and protect those less fortunate people, like the young eyless woman who was sitting at the cafe table in the Belem quarter of Lisbon.


Tower of Belem- facing the river

The balcony of the tower


Monastery of Jeronimo




Friday, March 6, 2009

A night at Vila Real de San Antonio


Ferry crossing the river between VSRA and Ayamonte


Back in the 80's , I was persuaded by a friend of mine , a native speaker of portuguese and spanish, to join him in a mini tour to Lisbon , Madrid, and their immediate surroundings, after which he was to fly to Argentina to visit his ailing mother and me to return home to Israel.

Two days after our arrival in Lisbon, he got an unexpectedly urgent message concerning his mother's condition and was asked to take the plane to Buenos Aires without any delay. I decided, sadly, to go on with the tour without him, and that required some change of itinerary. On the whole it turned out to be a smooth, enjoyable tour except for one very traumatic event.

Here it is:
After several more days in Portugal, I decided to go to Spain for a week , and then return to Portugal for a direct flight back home.
I don't remember exactly why and how that happened, but the fact was I took the wrong train from Lisbon and got off at the wrong frontier point for Spain (it was a border town in the southerneast tip of Portugal), and at a very wrong time- in the late evening hours.

The place looked deserted, the tiny office at the railway station closed, no living soul around .The only sound heard was that of barking dogs coming from what I imagined was a nearby fishermen village on the outskirts of the border town of Vila Real de San Antonio. I headed towards the village to find myself a place for the night. I approached some houses that had the sign 'Pencao' (pension, guest house) , rang the bell, knocked on the door. Nothing. No one would open the door or window to me. They just shouted something like ' it's full', 'no vacant bed' etc..

I was completely in shock. They could have directed me to another pension or helped me in some other way. Afer all , it was dark outside and me just a young female carrying a suitcase. But no. No opening of doors, no attempt to help.

I kept on going and looking for some sign of a hotel or pension ,when suddently I came upon a guy who had the looks and clothes of a respectable middle aged gentleman . I tried to explain to him my situation in the few broken portuguese words that I possessed, and asked for information on accommodation for the night. He was very polite and ...invited me to his house, but before I could even answer with a 'yes' or 'no' to his invitation, his hands were all over me . I panicked and started running back to the railway station. Once there, I found some bench and had myself seated on it . I made up my mind to wait here for the morning. It was cold , I felt tired and sleepy, but I made an effort to stay awake all night, as I had to keep an eye on myself and the suitcase.

I had plenty of time to think about what had just happened to me, and I realized that this was a border town , and as such it had different rules and codes of behavior. There was probably a lot of smuggling and illegal activity going on here on both sides of the river, and people were afraid to open their doors. As for the middle aged "gentleman" - unfortunately, this sort of people trying to take advantage of a person in distress, can be found everywhere.

In the morning , I took my suitcase , glad to leave the area. and started to walk in the direction of the Guadania river. It took me about 15-20 minutes to reach the ferry terminal. Upon arrival at the terminal,, I bought a ticket, showed my passport to the border authority man ,and didn't even once look back to see the place in daylight.

on a bench in Ayamonte (pale, after a sleepless night)

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Genius of the human mind




Nature is beautiful everywhere on this Planet. Each of the following categories has its specific beauty: deserts, fiords, glaciars, mountains, forests, lakes, valleys, etc...The great diversity of people inhabiting the planet has also a beauty of its own.

But when I travel I look for the genius of the human mind which displays itself in innumerable ways: channels and bridges that connect seas and lands shortening distances and making transport easier (Corinth Canal in Greece): vast open-air theaters that bring culture to the masses (Epidaurus amphitheater- Greece), fine architecture of public buildings and homes, impressive monuments to glorify heroes of the past (monument of the Discoveries in Lisbon), parks and gardens of rare ingenuity (the Generalife Gardens in Granada) etc...

Europe, considered the craddle of human culture and civilization, has it all over in: Greece, Italy, Spain, Portugal, England, France, you name it - and from Europe it got to other parts of the globus through european immigration and/or colonialism.

It seems the genius mind can do a lot about Nature ,Science, Music, Art, but little about People. There's still much ignorance, poverty, disease, chaos among people in many parts of the world and, unfortunately, it doesn't look as if this situation is going to change in the future.

Friday, February 27, 2009

Chalkis port on the Euripus strait


Chalkis ( Halkis) the main town of the greek island of Evia (Euboea), is situated on the Euripus strait.
The town is connected to the mainland Greece by "the sliding bridge" at the narrowest point of Euripus strait.

Euripus ( or Evripous) strait , about 8 km long, is famous for its special current tide phenomenon which is not fully understood yet. It has strong currents that change directions every seven (or more) hours a day. Ships are allowed to pass when the tide is slack.




Chalkis capital of Evia (Euboea) island
Connected by a bridge to greek mainland
Carrying trafic across Euripos strait
Where a unique sea tide takes place


Saturday, February 21, 2009

Amazing Epidaurus, silent Bourtzi


Epidavros, the ancient, greek circular theater with its fine acoustics , aesthetics ,and stone seats, is still in use today. Many plays, concerts, and festivals are held here. Despite the strong sunrays and climbing through the site (almost like in Mycenae) , it was a very rewarding visit.




Epidaurus, the vast amphitheater
Well preserved and much popular
Good acoustics, stage and seats
Enable art performances by Greeks.



Naplio- Bourtzi Castle (fortress)

In the background, the Bourtzi tiny island
On it , a castle-fortress, tall and silent
Built by the Turks to control
Access to harbour of Naplio

(Naplio - the greek capital before it was moved to Athens).

Saturday, February 14, 2009

The citadel of Mycenae


Archaeological / historical sites require that the visitor be well equipped: a hat to protect from the hot sunrays, strong shoes to help with the climbing of hills and the wandering among ruins, a bottle of water etc.. Well, I usually defied the rules. I liked to feel feminine, light as a feather, free of any attached accessories. Surprisingly, the tours in Greece and in some other countries were quite successful and no harm was done to me. I enjoyed every moment and overcame any challenge with no special effort.


Mycenae was one of those challenging places: no shade, steep climb, ruins etc...

The culture of Mycenae ( site located on the plain of Argolis) is the source of famous ancient epics and legends such as the Troyan War, and the tragic death of Agammemnon (murdered by his wife & her lover upon return from the Troyan War ). Mycenae is famous for the tombs of royal families. One enters the site through The Lion Gate (at the top of the gate-carved in stone, are two lions standing at a column and facing each other). Once passed the gate , one stands before shaft and circle graves. Nearby - a vaulted tomb (the tomb of Agamemnon).


Ruins at Mycenae

Ancient site on a rocky hill

The Lion Gate to it stands still
Here tombs and houses were uncovered
Grave shafts and treasures discovered.

Many come to this mystical place

To see the circle A and circle B graves
And the vaulted Agamemnon Tomb
Also, the Treasury of Artreus called


Circling the graves


The entrance to the dark Agamemnon Tomb


Friday, January 30, 2009

Old Corinth and the Corinth Canal


The ancient city of Corinth (NE in the Peloponessus on the Gulf of Corinth) was a rich , influential city. Ancient ruins at Old Corinth include: the temple of Apollo, a roman amphitheater, the marketplace, fountains.

Temple of Apollo at Old Corinth

Between pillars of the Temple of Apollo

Most of ancient Corinth
Has either dissappeared
Or by earthquaqes destroyed
And over the years rebuilt

And in spite of it all, there are still
Temple of Apollo ,5th century built
And remnants of an once rich town
With shops that made her renown


Shop at ancient Corinth

*
The Corinth Canal built in the late 19th century at the very end of the Gulf of Corinth was considered a great technical achievement , a great engineering masterpiece at the time intended to short sea voyage of ships.. It connects mainland Greece (North} with the Peloponnese peninsula (South), the Gulf of Corinth with the Saronic Gulf. Two large bridges one for railway, one for national Road are the land connection while below ships sail slowly from one sea to another, from the Adriatic to the Aegaen.

The canal appears as a blue strip and measures are: length - 6.3 km, width- 21 m, depth- 8m, height of the cliffs flanking it - 63m.
The attractions : one can take an organized cruise on a ship along the canal, or while on the bridge watch the bungy jump or look down and watch the passing ships. All three possibilities are exciting.


People looking down in wonder at the canal

The Corinth narrow ship Canal
Is something far from banal
Cut through solid rock and designed
By greatest of minds at the time
It links two seas and two pieces of land
While sailing, one can touch the cliffs by hand

Corinth Canal and the bridges


On the bridge

Corinth Canal - video


Monday, January 26, 2009

Delphi and the Oracle


Delphi is a very dramatic place. The drama is provided by the domineering Mt. Parnassos (today a famous ski center) and by the ancient archeological site with its sanctuary of Apollo, an ancient theater, a museum, etc.. In the classical Greek world, the sanctuary of Apollo was house to the Oracle delivered by the 'Phytea', the priestess ( an old speckless woman). The Oracle spoken in riddles, was interpreted by the priests of the temple and directed by them to the people who came from all over Greece to hear the prophesies of the Oracle and consult it before major undertakings.



Mt. Parnassos towering over Delphi

Delphi, the town and ancient site
At the foot of Mt. Parnassos' Might
Historical, dramatic, and sacred spot
Where people listened to and obeyed God

Here's the temple of Apollo, God of Light
Who foretold the future and was Guide
To people from all over the land of Greece
Who came to hear the Oracle through his priests.


The sanctuary dedicated to Apollo

Point of departure to and from the archeological site


View from above of the port of Itea


Narrow souvenir shop area

Friday, January 23, 2009

Cape Sounio


Sounio - what a lovely name, sounds romantic too. The place is famous for its sunsets .People gather at the temple on top of it to watch the sun go down in changing colors of yellow, red, and orange. It also offers , on a clear day, a panoramic view of surrounding islands in the Aegaen Sea such as the nearby greek islets of Makronisi and Patroklou


Cape Sounio is the name of the majestic spot
Really worth stopping at it for a camera shot
Up the hill and below it, there are things to see
Such as temple of Poseidon, the God of Sea

Under the marble temple a small harbour
And the Aegaen Sea with its blue crystal water
It is southernmost point of Europe mainland
One can see from above some aegaen islands


Climbing up the hill


Temple of Poseidon, the God of Sea in mythology


Boats on the sea

Bellow the hill, the Sea and a restaurant

Monday, January 19, 2009

Lycabettus Hill- - Athens


I like hills. They were the main attraction in my childhood town in Roumania. I liked the excitement of climbing up to the top, the panoramic view of the town bellow, the feeling of being close to the sky and God.


In ancient Greece there's the concept of "sacred hill" - the acropolis, with its superbly designed temples and stone air-open amphitheaters. I like that too.

Lycabettus Hill is the highest point in Athens and offers a good view of this densely populated city. It is cone shaped , and pine trees cover its base. One can walk via stairs ot take the funicular to the top.


Telescope deck on the Lycabettus

Lycabetus Hill in the middle of the capital
Offering a city sight which is spectacular
All of Athens as viewed from the top
Is like a huge, giant workshop.

The Hill is also place of worship
With small church and chapel of Ai Georgis
It has a restaurant/cafe on the top
And a theater which is a concerts host.


View of Athens from the Lycabettus

Monday, January 12, 2009

ATHENS - The Acropolis..and more


Athina - the greek word for Athens - reminds me of the famous greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassiss.
His first wife and his only grandaughter were both named Athina.

I have a little theory (supposedly, not original) : I think everyone is born with a certain Luck which goes with him/her from the cradle to the grave. In-between there are ups and downs, but a person's life usually ends more or less within the same kind of Luck it started with.


The "Rise and Fall" of Aristotle (Ari) Onassiss seems to be a fairly good example. Son of greek refugees, he worked as a liftboy, as telephone operator, and then his Luck gradually changed. He became rich, successful and famous through commerce with tobacco and ships. He married Athina (Tina), the daughter of a greek shipping magnate, whom he later divorced, had a long love affair with the world's greatest opera singer, Maria Callas, married late USA president John Kennedy's widow ,Jacky Kennedy, bought an island, had connections with Heads of States, Kings, etc.. and then, when in the third phase of his life, his Luck changed again.

His decline (personal , not financial), reached its bottom with the death of his son Alexander (25) in a plane crash. Onassiss never recovered from the tragedy of his son's death. He didn't live long enough (died three years later) to face another tragedy, that of his daughter Christina's death (37) .


And what became of the two Athina-s ? Athina (Tina), Onassis' divorcee ,died a year after her son's death.
Athina ,the grandaughter, is the sole survivor of the shipping tycoon 's immediate family, and she doesn't live in Greece.


The Acropolis (upper city)

In the center of Athens there are two hills : the Acropolis and the Lycabetus , both offering a splendid view of the city capital Athens.

The Acropolis is viewed as the highlight of ancient Greek civilization. It is believed that this is where democracy was born and where art and life became almost inseparable.
On the top of the acropolis is the Parthenon erected in honour of Athena , goddess protective of Athens. It is considered a marvel of architecture.


The Parthenon

The Acropolis, the upper city
Watching over Athen's beauty
Symbol of ancient civilization
The Greek's pride as a nation

A place of major temples
In honor of Athena Goddess
The most famous on the site
Is Parthenon standing upright

From the Acropolis one can get a superb view of the city with its outstanding landmarks: the Olympic Stadium, the Zappion , the National Gardens , etc.. Below the Acropolis is the ancient theater of Dionysos and the well-preserved temple of Thissio.


The ancient theater of Dionysos

On a stone chair in the theater of Dionysos

Behind, is the temple of Thissio


Monument in front of the Olympic Stadium


The Zappion Exhibition Hall


In the city square, pigeons everywhere


Guard- the Presidential Residence

Monday, January 5, 2009

Rhodes Rhodos Rodos - island of the Sun


I'm ashamed to admit it, but the first thought that comes to my mind when someone mentions Rhodos, is a big omelette with mushrooms I ate at the hotel "Blue Bay"on the day of our arrival in Rhodes. It was unforgettably tasty, or ..perhaps I was very hungry.

And then, I noticed the woven bed cover in the hotel room and liked it ,not knowing of course, that the next day , in one of the old city shops ,I'll find a poncho made of the same blue wool fabric as the bed cover, and I'll buy it on the spot. Another acquisition during the old city tour was that of a silver pendant representing the Colossos of Rhodes (statue considered one of the seven wonders of the ancient world), and a wooden matchbox with a metal deer on it - the Deer- the emblem of Rhodes guarding Mandraki harbour at the entrance to the city.

Bed cover that 'got' me a poncho


resting by the hotel's pool

Rhodos -the island's main town


My first real vacation trip abroad

Was to the greek island of Rhodes
I liked everything, including the flight
For me it was "love at first sight"

The city of Rhodos is divided in two
The old part and the modern, the new
Tourists are much attracted to the old
Which is medieval and walled

The entrance to the old city's made
Through the in-walls eleven gates
The busy narrow cobbled lanes
Are crossed by old archways

The modern city has broad streets
Lots of shops, beautiful things
Nice buildings ,hotels, green parks
Intensive nightlife with many bars

And in the area outside
Fine beaches, blue sea and sky
The famous 'valley of butterflies'
Archeological and historical sites

sculpture at the Archeological Museum

stone balls in the city park


in the old city

panoramic view of Rhodes - on a cloudy day
*
Outside the city of Rhodes ,I recall two outstanding attractions: the valley of the butterflies and the acropolis of Lindos.

Lindos

Above the modern village of Lindos
On the east coast of the island of Rodos
Rises the Acropolis - citadel and ancient spot
Offering views of the coastline and Rhodin port

One can climb up to the Acropolis on foot
Or on a monkey's back , sturdy and cute
Either way it's a rewarding experience
Providing pleasure, in the first instance


The Acropolis of Lindos


view from the Acropolis

Valley of the Butterflies

Between June and September, thousands of butterflies flock to the valley which is about 12 Km distant from the city and has many wooden bridges, streams, and waterfalls. It's a fascinating sight attracting lots of tourists eager to watch the butterflies phenomenon

Valley of the Butterflies ( by oldboy96)