Thursday, October 25, 2018

'St .Sava' and ' Sukkat Shalom'


If and when I visit a church  it's for its history, art, and architecture mainly, not for religious purposes, as I'm of jewish faith.  
In Belgrade, I visited both a famous orthodox church (St. Sava) and the only active synagogue in town (Sukkat Shalom). They say, during the WW2, the church was used by the Nazis as a parking lot, and the synagogue as a brothel.(OMG!).

The serbian St.Sava Temple, not far from the Slavija square mentioned in my previous post,  merits all the high epithets available in the vocabulary: amazing, mind-blowing, stunning, spectacular, breath-taking...

Temple of Saint Sava


the main entrance area

It's big, and  a work in progress ; the galeries on the first level are still under renovation process; the dome and downstairs crypt are already finished and provide the visitor with much wonder and excitement.

Such richness of structure, vivid colors, fiery lights and fine materials (marble, granite, stone, crystal, gold)!
Such beauty of frescoes, murals, icons!

marble columns

gorgeous candelabre

superb arches and floor


people contemplating the paintings

My small, rudimentary digital camera cannot do justice to the sights inside and outside this gem.


saints

arch above exit from the crypt

   stairs leading to upper level

urn

The church is surrounded by a lovely, peaceful garden with fountains and benches.

sitting on the edge of the fountain


On my way out, I noticed  the statue of Nicola Tesla in the church yard. I liked that very much. A scientist honoured in the courtyard of a church!!
After all ,science and religion are not the best of pals.


statue of Nicola Tesla in the church garden

During my brief stay in Belgrade, I got the impression that Nicola Tesla (1858-1943) is probably the most beloved and respected figure in Serbia. The airport is named after him, there's a  museum (in the same area as the church) dedicated to his life and work as an inventor, researcher, engineer, physicist; there are monuments in the city honoring his memory, and more...

museum Nicola Tesla

*
Compared to the 'St.Sava' church, 'Sukkat Shalom' (Dwelling of Peace ) synagogue is very modest . Still,  nice building and yard, beautiful interior. On the day of my visit, people in the courtyard were disassembling the 'sukka'  ( the hut-like structure in use during the jewish Sukkot holiday week).

The synagogue building is not only a place of worship but also one  of study and of community meetings, as it also houses the jewish community center with its various cultural and social activities. 


approaching the  gate

  tiny yellow sign with the name of the synagogue

beautiful iron gate with David's shield in the middle

building's top with a David's shield, seen from the outside

exterior of the synagogue ( entrance covered by the trees)

 prayer hall: upper balcony for women


'Aron Hakodesh'  - Torah scrolls closet

Despite the fact that the synagogue and the little, well kept, very interesting jewish museum (placed on another street) are centrally located, I haven't spotted them easily as they are kind of integrated with the rest of the buildings in the row, with no visible signage. I've also felt slightly bitter about the security measures at the entrance. One can freely visit a church or a mosque, but not a synagogue or a jewish institution.


captive women (jewish museum)

Moses and the 10 commandements (jewish museum)

And yet, there was something that made my day. On the way to the synagogue there's a small eatery with a big sign Tel Aviv Hummus House. It's a popular place for those who love  falafel, hummus, tahini and other middle eastern food. The visible yellow and blue sign , and the popularity of the place (open 24/7) are the best answer to terror threats and security measures.

Tel - Aviv Hummus House

34 comments:

  1. Very interesting. beautiful church. Why is there the security for the synagogue? Very thought provoking this post. Dutha.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well, there are constant threats by extremist muslim factors on jewish and israeli targets abroad - hence the security measures.

      Delete
    2. It's sad they have the need for security, but good that they have it.

      Delete
    3. You're very right about that, Sandi.

      Delete
  2. Tesla! :)

    They say he discovered something that would provide the entire world with energy, something to do with the globe and magnetism, if I understand. I hope someone does it. I think he was brilliant, but ahead of his time.

    "After all ,science and religion are not the best of pals."

    But they should be!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, Sandi - they should be. Science and religion are not contradictory, but complementary; Science deals with the factual world, religion with the spiritual, supernatural world.
      There are many scientists out there who believe in God Almighty and practice religious beliefs.

      Delete
  3. I love this post Duta, and you are an amazing traveler as you bring a wealth of knowledge and impressions to your descriptions、even though it is your first time there!!! I love how you shared about both the church and synagogue, and what a beautiful "homecoming" at the end of the post how you found the Tel Aviv falafel shop!! and the way it is a place of light in the city!!Praise God,as I sure believe He led you there!!! ♡

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Shayndel for your very kind and encouraging words.
      Yes, God led me.He's the Leader and the Protector. I pray to Him daily asking for giving me the ability to see, walk, and understand - as I am beyond retirement age, and these things don't come easily.

      Delete
  4. Travels with DUTA. What fun. Great pictures. Makes me want to pack my bags again.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I like the way you put it: "Travels with DUTA". Thank you.

      Delete
  5. If I'm correct, when finished, Sveti Sava Church will be the biggest Orthodox church in the world! We have semi/bitter feelings about it here because they used to charge a fee (for St. Sava's construction) on all posted letters and parcels and most of us don't feel good being forced to pay for a construction of a religious place instead of a school or a hospital.
    It is similar to the story of Nikola Tesla. Most of the public is deeply against church having anything to do with Tesla, as he was an atheist and hated religion. The church wants to take his bones (or urn I forgot which one) from his museum and bury them in a church which is deeply disgusting. But our church is generally very corrupted and evil.

    Glad you liked the architecture and the humus place (haven't heard of it before). Did you try burek that I mentioned to you before :)
    Just returned from Belgrade, myself today.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The Sveti Sava Church is already considered one of the biggest orthodox churches in the world.
      Look at the fee you had to pay not as a contribution to the construction of a religious place, but more as a contribution to the strenghtening of Tourism, which is strenghtening of Economy. This church is definitely a great touristic attraction.

      I don't think people, even the sworn atheists, hate religion; they do hate, though, the religious institutions which, sadly, are indeed corrupted everywhere.
      After going through a lot in my life, I've reached a point where I see myself as just a tiny, insignificant dot in the universe, who in order to survive needs the guidance and protection of a higher power (God).

      I've tried the local cheese burek at a pekara (bakery); it was delicious.

      Delete
  6. I did like Linda's comment above "Travels with DUTA", it made me smile.

    I did thoroughly enjoy reading your post and seeing your photographs, particularly those inside St.Sava.
    It is a great shame that security is needed for the synagogue.
    It was nice to see you in the photographs.

    Thank you for sharing your travels here.

    All the best Jan

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Me, too.
      Thank you Jan for your kind words. I'm very pleased with your liking of my photos. It makes me feel good and encourages me to share even more.

      Delete
  7. I especially like the old lamps with candles/lamps (photo 5) I love to be in churches too, even though I do not worship saints (photo 8). I love history and my husband loves the architecture. He's always telling me about the building styles :-) when we visit a church.

    Great synagoge. Love to see the name in Russian on the little yellow sign and in Hebrew of course. When you once came to Holland you should visit the synagoge in the city of Enschede!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Aritha,

      I visited Holland many , many years ago, and I remember touring the impressive Amsterdam Synagogue. It was, as they say, "something to write home about".

      The name on the yellow sign is in serbian and hebrew, but russian and serbian both share the cyrillic letters,so you were right to assume it was russian.

      Delete
  8. Interesting travelogue and great photos. I didn't know Tesla was a Serb. The only Serb I'm familiar with is tennis great Novak Djokovic.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you for your kind words.
      Yes, Tesla was a Serb and they seem very proud of him in Serbia. By the way, the internationally famous filmmaker Kustorica is also serbian.

      Delete
  9. I love Hummus! It's very popular here. We have such multicultural country!
    I enjoy visiting places of worship, as well. I'm not religious any more. It is fascinating seeing how others workship, though. Oops. Worship! Isn't that a funny slip! It takes a lot of work. I just don't get along in groups anymore.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Who doesn't. Hummus, tahini and falafel are a very popular and healthy fast food in our places. It depends, of course, where you buy it. There are all kinds of eateries and one must pay attention to the color of the falafel balls and frying oil, to the general hygiene etc...

      Delete
  10. Tesla is revered throughout the world.

    Wonderful photos of stunning buildings, DUTA...thank you. :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad you liked the photos, Lee.
      Photos are a must, as they retain the memories of the places we visit, of people we encounter. Without them, memories become very vague.

      Delete
  11. Even though you said your digital camera could not capture all the beauty, Duta, the grandeur did show through. Like yourself, I also like to visit places for their history and beauty and you certainly did tour a gem! I think that Tesla was right to be honored as his contributions are immense.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm glad you think so. I value your opinion. Anyway,it's certainly better than no photography..The photos give an authentic visual glimpse at the two religious sites and their yard.

      Delete
  12. Churches always inspire me, no matter the faith, from tiny ordinary ones we've seen to opulent ones in Europe and elsewhere. The architecture of this temple is outstanding and I'm sure no photo can capture all its beauty, but you did a great job of it, Duta! You have a keen eye for photography! I'm wondering--do men and women still have separate prayer sections in all synagogues? Too bad, it's a sad time here now after what happened in the U.S., the shooting at Pittsburgh's Tree of Life synagogue, I'm pretty much speechless and dismayed, appalled. I really enjoyed reading this and all your beautiful photography!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. To answer your question: yes, in Orthodox tradition, during prayer services, men and women are kept separate (not in the Reform Movement synagogues). Sometimes, it's a curtain that separates, sometimes there's a balcony for women, main floor for men.

      Thanks for your kind words and your reaction to the Pittsburg tragedy.

      Delete
  13. Hi Duta! Couldn't find email address for you but want you to know that I added your blog link to my last post. Hope that's OK, thanks! Pam

    ReplyDelete
  14. Thank God, the nazis never thought of destroying the worship places. Love that painting of the saints.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank God, indeed. The nazis had no red lines about anything.

      Delete
  15. Makes me so sad to think of it being used as a Brothel. What a beautiful church! Looks like a great trip! Only been to the train station. We were on our way to Greece from Austria.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 'Sad' is a mild word in this case. 'Shocked' will be better. Nazis - what's to expect of them...
      Yes, Kelleyn, the trip was great, thank you.

      Delete
  16. Temple of Saint Sava looks great.
    All photos are beautiful.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I agree with you about the temple.
      Vey glad you like my photos.

      Delete